Kinda like the Cameron Highlands but not really.

Batad village

When I flew into the Philipines, I never imagined I'd be spending time in the mountainous village in  Ifugao, Luzon. In fact if I recall correctly, I stumbled across a place called Batad by accident while searching for accommodation on google maps. I didn't actually do any proper research prior to going except for a a quick skim through the accommodation photos on Booking.com and a half-assed google search lasting no more than 2 minutes.

The overnight bus from Manila arrived at a small town called Banaue, about 12km from Batad village. It was 06:30 and I had slept around 1 or 2 hours, if at all. Immediately upon disembarking, all the foreign tourists were whisked away into a private van to the 'tourist office' for breakfast (not free) and a transport consultation with the freelancing taxi drivers.

Banaue town

I sat at one of the tables drinking my coffee. A few seconds later, the driver sat at the table opposite me. He had a pen and a small note pad.
"I can drive you to Batad, it's around a 20 minute drive in the van. I can offer you this"

He picked up the pen and wrote '800' on the note pad.
800 Pesos.

My immediate thought was 'hell no, I'll wait until 15:00 for the public jeepney'.

I was hoping he'd say something like 2 or 300 but I guess I really would be sticking around for a few more hours. After eating breakfast at a leisurely pace, I went to take a walk outside where I was quickly swooped upon by a tricycle driver/independent tour guide.

Long short I ended up arriving at the agreeing on 800 Pesos to get to Batad. (I got a tricycle ride up to the Banaue lookout point in addition to transportation to Batad). The driver informed me that due to the inaccessibility of the the village, the prices of food and drink would be higher that back in Banaue.

I arrived in Batad later that afternoon hauling approximately 27kg down a narrow path which in New Zealand we would call an 'intermediate level tramping track'. With an average tread rise of about 40cm, it's great for improving your single leg squats. The main path to the village looked like something out of Crash Bandicoot.

Main road into the village - Rocks sticking out of a wall

The view from the hostel overlooking the Batad rice terraces was spectacular, or should I say, will be. The visibility was less than ideal for the entire duration of the 4 days, and it was the 'off' season for rice planting so the rice paddies were mostly barren; however my only regret is not having a proper camera with me.

Batad Village

Spending a few days here the most interesting to note is how different the way of life is here. There is no cellphone reception, there are no motor vehicles, wood ovens are commonplace, the range of food options are very limited, and black-outs are a common occurrence. There was the feeling that you were really living on the edge of civilisation.

On the way out I got a ride on the roof of the public jeepney. This is the cheapest way of getting to and from Batad and I can highly recommend it. For no extra cost, you can opt to sit on the roof rack.  In fact i'd say it's better than hanging onto the back of a jeepney which is another thing I can recommend if you enjoy hanging onto the outside of moving vehicles.

I spent the next half day around the Banaue area, and although it doesn't have the same quaint character at Batad village, it's still a nice little town which really gives off a vibe as being the 'end of the line'; the place where adventurers stock up on supplies before making their descent. I'd say this is the most interesting yet overlooked area of the Philippines and I'd also say it's worth coming here just to get a ride on the roof of a jeepney.

Banaue town

Banue town